Changes from Within - A Story of A Cup of Organic Tea 從心開始改變,一杯有機茶的故事:《農產加工不只醬》選摘(3)

Changes from Within - A Story of A Cup of Organic Tea 《It is more than agricultural processes》Excerpt (3)

 
文章出自:風傳媒 www.storm.mg/article/2318437
Source: The Storm Media www.storm.mg/article/2318437


●茶菁採摘後,製作過程中攪拌的力道、溫濕度與時間,將決定茶的發酵程度。After fresh leaves picked, the grade of tea fermentation is decided by the strength of blending,temperature, humidity, and time. 
 

二代茶農鄭信忠曾擔任廚師,過去在山上是看到什麼就吃什麼。但隨著與慈心相處的時間越來越長,某一天他和朋友發現一隻受傷的鹿,朋友想拿來做料理,卻被他擋下。陳善嘉說:「以前對他來講是很好的野味,一定會覺得賺到了。」鄭信忠卻將牠帶回家照顧,再送回動物園。

原本打算跟太太享受悠閒退休生活的陳陸合,因為意識到守護水源的重要性,除了自家茶園,還租了很多慣行茶園來做有機,盡力維持土地的純淨。

茶農如此,來茶園幫忙除草、採茶的阿嬤們也有了轉變。陳善嘉說:「慣行茶園不會像有機茶園有毛毛蟲、蜜蜂等。剛開始來的時候,她們也會排斥。常常有阿嬤被叮,她們現在已經免疫了,擦完藥還是繼續採。」

在慈心工作人員和茶農的共同努力下,合作茶園免除了化肥及農藥的危害,收成的茶葉則運往慈心淨源茶場。

The second generation tea farmer, Cheng Shin-Zhong, used to be a chef. He ate anything he got when he was in the mountain. After he spent more time with Tse-Xin, he stopped the harmful behavior when his friend tried to make a meal out of a wounded deer.  Chen Jia-Shan said, “In the past, those wild animals were tasty meat for him and he thought he could get them without any payment”. However, Cheng Shin-Zhong took this wounded deer back to his place and took care of the deer then escorted it to the zoo. 

Chen Lu-He, who originally planned to enjoy a leisurely retirement life with his wife, realized the importance of protecting the water source. In addition to his own tea garden, he also rented many traditional tea gardens to do organic, trying to maintain the purity of the land.

Tea farmers have started changing their behaviors, and those aunties who help grass cutting and tea picking are changing as well. Chen Jia-Shan said, tea gardens with conventional farming method wouldn’t have caterpillars and bees...etc. Those aunties rejected organic plantation at the beginning as they got stung frequently. They get immunity and keep tea picking after put on medicine.

By the joint efforts of Tse-Xin associates and tea farmers, tea farms are free from the hazards of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. And the harvested tea leaves were delivered to Tse-Xin Ching Yuan Tea Factory.
 
●坪林多為手工採茶,須仰賴大批有經驗的採茶工幫忙。慈心協助招集採茶工,因此合作農友不用煩惱缺工的問題。但因應人口老化,也將漸漸改採機械採。 The tea farmers mostly pick tea by hand in Ping-Ling which needs to rely on a lot of experienced workers to help tea picking. Tse-Xin assists recruiting tea picking workers. Therefore, tea farmers don't need to worry about the lack of workers. Tea picking by machine is gradually replacing hand picking in response to the aging population.


門外漢製茶已成氣候
Layman Becomes Expert


有機茶葉若與慣行茶葉使用同一套設備製造,會有很高的交叉汙染風險;若要請茶農在家中另建置一套製茶設備,會增加茶農負擔。因此慈心在2009年向行政院農業委員會農糧署申請「有機茶輔導生產與有機農業推廣及技術交流計畫」,著手設立淨源茶場。

陳善嘉提起這段往事:「2009年四月份要採茶,茶場直到採茶前一天才把整個機器的安裝、電的配置弄好。我弄到早上三點才下山去。」旁人都說他的投入,完全不會讓人覺得他是義工。

茶場設立第一年,員工都沒有製茶經驗,余三和便協助製茶。隨著茶菁數量越來越多,第二年已經忙不過來,於是邀請其他的專業製茶師到場技術指導。在專業的教導和學習中,他們找到適合有機茶的製作方法。走水比較不順,影響香氣,他們的應對方法是加重發酵,做出有機茶的特色,也得到很多消費者的認同。這批當初大家口中的「門外漢」,如今已成氣候,在近兩年的「有機包種茶分級評選會」中得到優異成績。2019年五月三十日新北市政府和臺北市瑠公農田水利會主辦的「2019有機包種茶分級評選會」中,淨源茶從35個參賽點數、十八位參賽者中脫穎而出,奪得六銀十銅。

在茶場中,我們還驚訝地發現兩位年約三十歲的年輕製茶師。

If organic tea is made with the same set of equipment as conventional tea, there will be a high risk of cross-contamination. It would increase financial burden if tea farmers establish a set of in house tea making equipment. Therefore, Tse-Xin proposed a program of Counseling Organic Tea Production, Promoting Organic Agriculture, and Technologies Exchanging to Agriculture and Food Agency in 2009 and started establishing Ching Yuan Tea Factory.
 
Chen Shanjia mentioned this story: "We picked tea in April 2009. The tea farm did not complete the installation of the machine and the electrical configuration until the day before the tea picking. I did not go back to the city until 3 o'clock in the morning." People said that he didn’t look like a volunteer when they saw his devotion to this project.
 
Most employees of Ching Yuan Tea Factory didn’t have experience in making tea in the first year, so Yu San-He started assisting in making tea. By the quantities of fresh tea leaves were increased in the second year, everyone was quite busy at work. Ching Yuan Tea Factory invited other professional tea making experts to come to the factory to provide technical support. 
 
Under professional guidance and learning from experts, Ching Yuan Tea Factory found an applicable method to make organic tea. It would affect tea aroma if moisture evaporation is not satisfactory. The solution was to enhance the process of fermentation to bring out the features of organic tea and to get recognized by consumers. This group of "laymen" that everyone once called has become a reality.
 
Ching Yuan Tea Factory obtained excellent results from「Organic Paochong Tea Assorting and Grading Evaluation Committee」in recent two years. Tse-Xin Pure Spring Tea of Ching Yuan Tea Factory won 6 Sliver Awards and 10 Bronze Awards standing out from 35 contest points and 18 competitors which was the event of 「2019 Organic Paochong Tea Assorting and Grading Evaluation Committee」 conducted by New Taipei City Government and Liugong Irrigation Association on May 30th, 2019.
 
In the tea factory, we were also surprised to find two young tea makers who were about 30 years old.



與所有居民共同守護土地的純淨
Joint Efforts with Residents to A Pure Land


一位是對有機茶有興趣,因朋友介紹而投身製茶工作,有半年資歷。另一位負責製茶,也是茶場中唯一的焙茶師,製茶資歷六年;他說製茶要順著茶顯現的特質,再去除雜味等缺點。還與我們分享製茶過程的心情就像「母親在照顧嬰兒一樣。⋯⋯雖然有時候眼睛沒有一直看著小孩,但心還是掛念著。」談吐中透露那個年紀少有的成熟穩重。除了年輕製茶師的加入,也已經有六位有機茶農的第二代投入坪林茶產業。陳善嘉欣慰地說:「感覺越來越有希望了!」

淨源茶場為了開拓多元通路,除了坪林的包種茶之外,也製作球型烏龍茶,於里仁通路和各地茶坊販售。擁有歐盟有機驗證資格的慈心,也曾收到來自法國的訂單,讓他們思考拓展海外市場的可能性。除此之外,希望未來能擬定多元的推廣管道,逐步達成「淨源計畫」的願景。陳善嘉說:「慈心來這邊,是希望有一天,茶農從種植到銷售都能夠獨立作業,因為我們不可能永遠在這裡,還有很多事情要推展。」

One was interested in organic tea and being introduced by his friend so he started devoting to tea making; now he has 6 months of experience. Another tea maker is in charge of tea making and he is also the only tea baker in the factory with 6 year tea making experience. Chen Jia-Shan said that making tea should follow the characteristics of tea and then remove those disadvantages of impurity taste. He also shared the feeling of the process of making tea “it is just like a mother takes care of her baby. Although sometimes you don’t watch the baby all the time but the heart is holding there”. It appeared his maturity when he spoke even he was still young at his age. In addition to the participation of young tea masters, there are six second-generation organic tea makers who devote to tea industry in Ping-Ling. Chen Jia-Shan said with satisfaction: “it feels like getting more hopes”.
 
In order to open up multiple channels, Ching Yuan Tea Factory also produces ball type Oolong tea in addition to Pinglin’s Baozhong tea, which is sold in Lee Zen chain stores and tea shops in various places. Tse-Xin owns qualification by EU organic certification. Ching Yuan Tea Factory started to think about the possibility of exploring international markets when they received orders from France. Apart from this, they expect to establish diverse sales channels in future then to achieve the vision of 「Ching Yuan Project 」. Chen Jia-Shan said, “Tse-Xin comes here to provide advices, and wishes that tea farmers are able to independently manage the business from planting to sales because Tse-Xin cannot be here forever. There are so many projects which need to be developed.



●製茶師與我們分享茶葉風味的語彙,茶香有花香、果香等,花香可細分為:含苞待放、盛開的花.......,果香又分為青果、熟果等。(林寬宏 攝)Tea maker shared with us the meanings of tea aroma, such as floral and fruity...etc. Floral aroma is differentiated from budding, and blooming flowers...; fruity aroma is differentiated from young fruit taste, and mature fruit taste...etc. (photo by: Lin Kuan Hong)

 
2007年底,慈心進駐坪林推廣有機茶時,有機茶園面積僅四公頃,有機茶農只有一位。經過了十一年的耕耘,如今坪林地區已成立兩個有機茶產銷班(共三十三位茶農,與慈心契作十三位),有機茶園面積已成長到六十公頃。慈心從人力、通路等面向,築出一條可持續發展的路,期盼能長遠守護水源地的純淨,也為棲居其上的人類和生物打造永續生存的住所。
 
At the end of 2007, when Tse-Xin entered Pinglin to promote organic tea, the organic tea plantation area was only four hectares and there was only one organic tea farmer. After 11 years of hard work, two organic tea production and marketing teams have been established in Pinglin area (33 tea farmers in total, 13 of whom have worked with Tse-Xin), and the organic tea plantation has grown to 60 hectares. Tse-Xin supports manpower, and sales channels to establish a path with sustainable development, with the hope to protect the pure source water in the long term, and also create a sustainable residence for the humans and creatures living on it.




淨源茶場產地行旅
Intellectual Journey to Ching Yuan Tea Factory


茶場週末會舉辦知性之旅,透過實地走訪,讓民眾認識有機和慣行農法的差異,感受有機茶園盎然生態的得來不易,會更加珍視土地的恩惠,也體認到茶園環境對水資源的影響。

在茶園裡,大家頭戴花布和斗笠,穿上袖套,親手採茶或除草,感受務農的辛勞。此外也參觀製茶流程、泡茶、品茗,並透過解說員的分享,瞭解「淨源茶」成立的理念,以及完全沒有經驗的一群人一路走來的心路歷程。完整的體驗過程,使大家體會一杯有機茶需要許多人的共同努力,以及彼此互助合作的可貴。

慈心不僅為合作茶農提供技術輔導,安排採茶工等協助,對於其他在地友善土地的個人或組織,如:臺灣大學建築與城鄉研究所發展的品牌「山不枯」,亦維持不藏私的友好互動關係。未來需要從更多元化的管道推廣,讓更多人認識淨源茶。

Intellectual Journey is conducted every weekend at Ching Yuan Tea Factory. The journey leads people to understand the differences between organic and conventional farming through physical experiencing the journey, and to make them realize how difficult to maintain an ecological organic tea farm. They will cherish the blessings of the land more and realize the impact of the tea farming on water resources.

In the tea farm, everyone wore flower printed cloth and bamboo hat, put on sleeves, picked tea or cut grass, and felt how the hard work that farmer had done. In addition, they visited the process of tea making, made a cup of tea, and tea tasting. To understand the mission of establishing Tse-Xin Pure Spring Tea, the journey of tea making experiences were shared by the tour guide. The whole journey made everyone experience that it needed a lot of people and efforts to make a cup of organic tea, and the precious value of collaborations.

Tse-Xin not only provides technological advices to contracted tea farmers but also assists arranging tea picking workers. For other local individuals or organizations who are friendly toward the lands, Tse-Xin maintains good mutual relationships with them; such as Sanpuku (literally means mountains do not dry out), the brand developed by the Institute of Architecture and Urban-Rural Research of National Taiwan University. It needs more diversified promotional channels to make more people to know about Tse-Xin Ching Yuan Tea in the future.



◆堅持核心理念,招募志同道合夥伴,善用組織的資源及特長,長期提供合作農友穩定的支持系統。
◆長期穩定的支持系統,包含:協助農民改善田間管理方式、發展對應的焙茶加工製程及設備,同時建立穩固的社群支持網絡與銷售推廣系統。

◆Uphold to the core concepts, recruit partners with same visions, make good use of the organization's resources and expertise, and provide a stable support system for contracted farmers in the long run. 
◆Long term and sustainable support system includes: assist farmers in improving field management, develop corresponding tea baking process and equipment, and establish a solid community support network and sales promotion system.




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